How to Sew Jersey Fabric: Simple Steps & Solutions

Struggling with wavy seams or bumpy hems? This guide shows how to sew jersey fabric with clear steps and proven settings: pick the right needle and stitch, set up a home machine, cut on the grain, stabilise shoulders, finish flat hems, and press safely. You’ll also get fast fixes for skipped stitches and tunnelling—usable for single jersey, interlock, and poly/spandex. Built from FlagOh field tests, it’s concise, numbers-backed, and ready to use.

How To Sew Jersey Fabric Made Easy Today

How to sew jersey fabric gets straightforward when you follow clear, tested steps: read the knit, choose the right needle and stitch, then cut, sew, press, and finish with simple techniques for smooth seams and flat hems. Written in plain English for home machines, this guide helps you get reliable results the first time.

What Is Jersey Fabric

Jersey is a knit, not a woven. Instead of straight criss-cross threads, it’s built from tiny loops, which is why it stretches and drapes softly. You’ll see it in cotton, viscose/rayon, or polyester, often with a touch of spandex so it springs back and holds its shape. Let the built-in stretch guide needle and stitch choice.

There are two everyday types. Single jersey is the classic T-shirt knit—light, smooth, and the raw edges like to curl. Interlock is a double knit—thicker, more stable, and less prone to curling. Sports jerseys are usually polyester/spandex for durability and recovery. As a weight guide, most T-shirts sit around 150–170 GSM, casual dresses 180–210 GSM, and leggings 200–240 GSM for better coverage and stability. 

Jersey Sewing In Eight Steps

Step 1 — Prewash & relax the fabric: 

Wash before cutting, then let the fabric rest flat so the knit relaxes. Mark a small test square, wash once, and re-measure to learn the true shrink. 

Step 2 — Read the fabric, then pick the needle:

If test seams leave tiny holes or “ladders,” switch to a softer-tip stretch/ballpoint and install a fresh needle. Use smooth polyester thread that snaps cleanly without fuzz. 

Step 3 — Match stitch to the job:

Use a stretchy seam for areas that move (side seams, cuffs) and a calmer topstitch for show lines. Anchor starts/ends by pulling thread tails to the wrong side and knotting instead of heavy backstitching. 

Step 4 — Guide, don’t pull: 

Keep one hand lightly flattening in front of the foot and the other supporting behind. Start on a scrap “leader” to stop bird-nesting, and use a hump-jumper (a small leveller for thick joins) over bulky joins. 

Step 5 — Square the grain, then cut:

Let the selvedge hang to find true grain, then tape the selvedge edge to your cutting mat so pieces stay square. For pairs, lay right sides together and mirror-cut; a sheet of freezer paper pressed on top makes curls behave and peels off clean. 

Step 6 — Reinforce only where needed: 

Stitch knit stay tape or clear elastic flat (don’t stretch it) along the shoulders before closing the seam. For pockets or zips, fuse a slim strip of tricot inside the seam allowance so the body stays soft. 

Step 7 — Prepare hems with “memory”: 

Press the fold so the edge holds its shape; let it cool. 

Step 8 — Press to set, then cool: 

Lift-and-press through a cloth and let pieces cool flat under a clapper or a heavy book to lock the shape. Steam from the wrong side on curves (like necklines) so the contour stays round and crisp.

Set Up Your Machine For Jersey Sewing Today

To dial in how to sew jersey fabric, support the fabric, keep the feed smooth, and let the machine move the knit. Use small helpers—scrap leader, parchment, guide bar—to keep the feed even. 

Sew Jersey On Regular Machines

• Keep the fabric level with the needle plate (tray/box support) to prevent drag and waves.
• Feed thread cleanly: use a stand or upright spool; wind bobbins slowly and not too full.
• Control the line: needle-down pivots; fingernail as a mini edge guide; “stitch-in-the-ditch” at joins.
• Reduce stick & lint: baking parchment under the foot for foiled prints; brush feed dogs mid-session.
• Finish neatly: pull thread tails to the wrong side and knot/bury; log your successful “recipe”.

Sew Jersey On Basic Machines

• Mark the seam line if guides are sparse; sew on the line for accuracy.
• Glide over bulk: start on a paper leader; micro-lift the presser foot as the hump passes.
• Tame curl/tunnel: light starch or a strip of tissue/freezer paper; tear away after stitching.
• Keep hems even: use a quilting guide bar or tape a card strip as a fence.
• Support the project so it doesn’t drag on the table while you sew.

Reinforce Jersey Shoulder Seams

Shoulder seams take the most pull, so support them before joining the front and back. Lay a clear elastic flat along the shoulder line and stitch without stretching, or press a slim strip of tricot interfacing inside the seam allowance. A narrow knit stay tape also works. 

Dial in a smooth feed, keep the fabric level, and let the machine—not your hands—do the work; when seams lie flat, and spring back, your setup is right. Keep a scrap at the needle to test small tweaks and note the “recipe” that fits your machine. For a handy reference, our store’s setup card puts these settings on a single, printable page.

Basic Ironing Techniques For Jersey Fabric

Clean pressing is what turns good sewing into great sewing. In any practical guide to how to sew jersey fabric, setting gentle heat and controlled steam, shaping curves on a ham or seam roll, blocking panels back to square, and protecting prints with a barrier layer keeps the stretch intact and finish mark-free.

Set the heat and steam

Let the iron fully warm up, then give it a few test puffs so steam flows evenly. Shape curves (necklines, armholes) over a tailor’s ham or seam roll and steam from the wrong side, so the curve sets without shine. 

For panels that feel a bit skewed after washing, block them: lay flat, mist lightly, square the edges by hand, and let them dry in place. On printed or foiled jerseys, protect the surface with baking parchment or a Teflon sheet while steaming to avoid sticking

Simple care tips while ironing

Keep the soleplate clean—a quick wipe prevents marks on light knits. Use silk organza as a see-through pressing layer when you need to watch the seam line. After each press, lock the shape with a clapper (or a heavy book) until cool; this sets hems and bands neatly. To avoid ridge imprints, press over a seam roll so allowances sink into the gap. If edges want to curl, finger-press them flat with a light mist first, then set with the iron. 

Keep it crisp—press steadily with a cloth barrier so the surface stays clean. A compact checklist and gentle-on-fabric accessories are available at FlagOh. Always test heat on a scrap or inside seam, protect prints with a barrier sheet, and follow your iron/machine manual.

Care And Storage For The Jersey After You Sew

Learn how to sew with jersey knit, then protect the result with smart care: wash, press, and store well. Those everyday moves at the washer, the ironing board, and the closet keep seams lively and hems in line.

• Wash & dry the right way: Turn garments inside-out and use a cool, gentle cycle with mild detergent. A mesh bag limits rubbing and pilling. Keep spin ≤ 800 rpm to avoid stretch; reshape while damp and lay flat to dry. If you need the dryer, use low heat briefly, then finish flat.
• Store so it keeps its shape: Fold rather than hang to avoid shoulder bumps. If you must hang, use wide, padded hangers and support the shoulder seam. Keep pieces out of direct sun, and rotate fold lines to prevent set-in creases. Remove light pilling with a fabric shaver, gently.
• Stains, prints, and patches: Polyester can show dye migration at higher heat—test a hidden corner and use a protective sheet during pressing. Blot stains quickly; use a drop of dish soap for oily marks and cold water for protein stains, then rinse well. For printed or HTV numbers and patches, wash inside-out, skip high heat, and never press the graphic directly. If a transfer lifts, re-seal from the wrong side through a press cloth with light heat and brief pressure.

Keep it gentle, cool washes, flat drying, light pressing, and folding instead of hanging. For a compact care card and a quick storage checklist you can print and keep by your machine, FlagOh has you covered.

Common Questions About Sewing Jersey Fabric

Short answers to the key choices in how to sew jersey fabric: stitch type, needle size, and machine settings—stitch type, needle size, and setup—make the biggest difference. This Q&A gives fast, clear answers so you can pick the right settings and fix common issues on the spot.

What stitch should I use on jersey?
Zigzag L 2.5–3.0 mm / W 0.5–1.0 mm or the “lightning” stitch so seams stretch without breaking.

Can I sew jersey without a serger?
Yes. A regular machine with zigzag/lightning and a twin-needle hem works well. A serger is faster, but not required.

Which needle size works best for jersey?
Start with 75/11 stretch for light-medium knits; move to 80/12 for thicker jersey. Change needles often to avoid skips.

How do I set the zigzag or “lightning” stitch?
Begin at L 2.5–3.0 mm / W 0.5–1.0 mm. If seams pop, widen the width slightly; if wavy, shorten a bit and reduce foot pressure.

How do I stop wavy seams?
Lower presser-foot pressure, support the fabric, and (on serger) set DF (differential feed) 1.3–2.0. A walking foot helps.

How do I prevent skipped stitches?
Install a new 75/11 stretch needle, rethread, widen zigzag a touch, and avoid pulling the fabric while sewing.

Keep notes of what works, change needles often, test on a scrap before each project, and let the machine feed the fabric while you guide with light hands. Sewing jersey comes down to a few steady habits: understand the knit, set up the machine for stretch, guide the fabric instead of pulling, finish calmly, and care for the garment so it keeps its shape. Follow the eight steps, use the simple setup checks, and lean on the fixes you’ve practised—soon, how to sew jersey fabric will feel routine, not tricky. For a quick reference, FlagOh offers a printable settings card and a one-page care guide to keep by your machine.